Esteban Cortazar: South Beach’s Prodigy
Esteban Cortazar on June 28, 2002
Miami Beach, FL – June 18, 2013 – Colombian-born fashion designer Esteban Cortazar entered the fashion world at just 13 years old right here in Miami, and has been steadily climbing the ladder of success ever since. It all started with his first fashion show that was an entry into a talent show for school, and Esteban, ever the perfectionist, got models to strut on the runway, make-up to be done by MAC, and designed and executed all his own designs while most of his peers were playing video games. He became the youngest designer to have shown at Miami International Fashion Week and was just 17 when his very own creations went down the runway at New York Fashion Week. After he met designer Todd Oldham on South Beach, he was submerged into the world he so passionately craved in Miami, New York, and beyond. Graduating from the Design & Architecture Senior High in the Design District, he was later appointed Chief Creative Director at Emanuel Ungaro in Paris at just 23 years old.
Now, he’s based in New York and since September, has working exclusively with online luxury fashion retailer, Net-a-Porter, to launch his refined collections under his own name. The anticipated second collection has 23 exclusive pieces and launches on July 3. His garments have graced the bodies of celebrities like Brandy, Nicole Richie, and Solange Knowles, with his name becoming all the more well-known among clothing and shoe lovers. Upon a recent trip to visit his hometown where he grew up, Cortazar threw a last-minute dinner at Soho Beach House, and caught up with World Red Eye about his early foray into fashion, some past gossip, and where he’s headed now.
World Red Eye: How does it feel to be back in your hometown? It’s a special treat to have you back.
Esteban Cortazar: It was definitely a special treat. It was a spontaneous thing that came up. I was going for other personal reasons, so I thought maybe we can put together a little dinner to celebrate the collections I’ll be launching in a couple weeks on Net-a-Porter and invite the Miami influencers and friends I have in the town I grew up in. It wasn’t the ideal weather with the rain, but it ended up being dramatic and cinematic in the way it looked from the top of the Soho House, so it was quite beautiful.
First Fashion Show at Bar Room on April 28, 1999
Esteban’s fashion show at Bar Room was the first of its kind- never before had such a young prodigy been able to execute a full production on his own, let alone in one of South Beach’s top nightclubs of the time. Clearly ahead of his time, Cortazar dedicated all his time and efforts to his designs and achieving the perfect show by recruiting models and make-up artists. No detail was left to spare, which is what still carries through in his work now, over a decade later.
“We always knew Esteban was a creative genius. To date, I’ve never met someone with such talent and an incredible aura at such a young age that all notables flocked to him. At fourteen he produced his first fashion show at my club Barroom, and we all knew then that there was no holding this kid back.” – Chris Paciello, owner of Bar Room
Esteban Cortazar
WRE: You first got your start in the fashion world when you met Todd Oldham here in Miami, how did that come about? Are you guys still friends?
EC: Absolutely. I met Todd when I was about 13 years old- when he first opened his store on South Beach. I lived just a few blocks away at The News Café with my father, and it was just a beautiful and interesting time in South Beach. It was just really beginning its glowing years with Gianni Versace; it was my playground as a kid and experiencing those things around me growing up was a big inspiration. Todd brought me to New York for my first fashion show. It was the beginning of my career, and I had this drive at such a young age. Something just clicked in me, and I’m lucky to have him push me to do what I wanted to do and make me comfortable with who I am. The more years that pass, the more I realize the value in being able to live in Miami at that time with such great people that made it what it is today.
Esteban Cortazar
The Cortazar-Celebrity Connection
With his mother, Dominique Vaughn, a jazz singer, and his father, Valentino Cortazar, an artist, Esteban grew up in an environment that promoted creativity and fine arts. When he started sketching dresses and set out for his first fashion show, he quickly gained a celebrity following, especially after he met designer Todd Oldham. With much of his South Beach childhood spent in the spotlight, Esteban’s friends and close supporters quickly developed into a long roster of famous names and faces. It’s been this unique childhood that has contributes to his very early experience as a designer and has allowed him to grow into a premier fashion designer so rapidly.
Dre O’Brian, Blu Cantrell & Esteban Cortazar at Mynt on April 17, 2002
Esteban Cortazar, Roberto Cavalli, & Cindy Crawford at Roberto Cavalli Party at Prive on November 1, 2002
WRE: What are your fondest memories growing up in the Magic City? How does your childhood here influence you as a designer now?
EC: It definitely gave me my sensual approach to the way I play and experiment with the female body. I grew up in a town where there were a lot of naked bodies around and the female body was celebrated in a sexy way. Being Latin and growing up in South Beach around the gay culture at such an early age gave me the freedom to be who I wanted to be, with this uninhibited way of not having any pressure or formula to prove anything to anyone. Miami was just a spontaneous little town. I mostly lived in South Beach, then I started going to DASH in the Design District when it was starting to grow. I started to see the growth of Miami as the years went by, but those early years really set something in my heart. I’ll never forget those years, especially getting to meet Gianni [Versace] and being at these photo shoots with Cindy Crawford on the beach- things that will never be replicated- they’re quite special, and it will always be an inspiration for me and my work.
Cindy Crawford & Esteban Cortazar at Roberto Cavalli Party at Prive on November 1, 2002
Esteban Cortazar & Paulina Rubio at Roberto Cavalli Party at Prive on November 1, 2002
Aimee Rubio, Norma Jean Abrams, Tara Solomon, Esteban Cortazar, & Merle Weiss at Roberto Cavalli Party at Prive on November 1, 2002
Ric Pipino & Esteban Cortazar at the Grand Opening of Sky Bar on January 24, 2003
Barbara Becker & Esteban Cortazar at the Grand Opening of Sky Bar on January 24, 2003
Natalie Martinez & Esteban Cortazar at Model Volleyball Tournament on March 30, 2003
Mayte Garcia, Kimora Lee Simmons, Omahyra Mota, Michael Capponi, & Esteban Cortazar at Baby Phat Party at Prive on August 8, 2003
DJ Cassidy, Kimora Lee Simmons, & Esteban Cortazar at Baby Phat Party at Prive on August 8, 2003
Kimora Lee Simmons, Eric Milon, Mayte Garcia, Omahyra Mota, & Esteban Cortazar at Baby Phat Party at Prive on August 8, 2003
Omahyra Mota & Esteban Cortazar at Baby Phat Party at Prive on August 8, 2003
Wayne Boich, Tara Reid, & Esteban Cortazar at Mynt on November 8, 2003
Sky Farrell, Esteban Cortazar, & Tara Reid at Sting Concert After Party at Sky Bar on January 17, 2004
Esteban Cortazar & Tommy Lee at Mansion on March 5, 2004
Esteban Cortazar & Fergie at New Years Eve at Sky Bar on December 31, 2004
Esteban Cortazar & Star Jones at MAC Cosmetics Presents a Dinner for Esteban Cortazar at Casa Tua on March 22, 2005
Esteban Cortazar & Shakara Ledard at MAC Cosmetics Presents a Dinner for Esteban Cortazar at Casa Tua on March 22, 2005
Esteban Cortazar at MAC Cosmetics Presents a Dinner for Esteban Cortazar at Casa Tua on March 22, 2005
WRE: What was it like being 13 years old and trying to break into the fashion business?
EC: That wasn’t even in my mind at the time. It wasn’t about that. That’s the beauty of being so young: you don’t think about those kinds of things, you have a freedom of going up and talking to people. I had no shyness with expressing myself. It was just me playing designer, it wasn’t so much ‘this is going to be my career.’ I was just being spontaneous, and it continued to grow. When I showed my first collection in New York at 17, it was the same kind of thing; I wasn’t so aware of everything that goes into this business. Now I am, fortunately or unfortunately, and I can’t be that same way anymore. There is pressure and I’m not a kid anymore. I really have to prove myself and show what I’m about. That’s why this Net-a-Porter project is incredible because they’ve not only allowed me to express my vision, but I can reach women all around the world from Miami to Sydney. It goes beyond something small; I’m taking baby steps to really build the right business.
Damon Dash, May Andersen, Michael Capponi, Esteban Cortazar, & Amir Siama at Sunglass Hut Swim Show After Party at Prive on July 15, 2005
Esteban Cortazar at Sunglass Hut Swim Show After Party at Prive on July 15, 2005
May Andersen & Esteban Cortazar at Sunglass Hut Swim Show After Party at Prive on July 15, 2005
Esteban Cortazar & Christopher Ciccone at T-Mobile at Ola South Beach on November 15, 2005
Marissa Miller & Esteban Cortazar at Rosa Cha Dinner at Metro on July 17, 2005
Lydia Hearst & Esteban Cortazar at DKNY Swim Hosted by Lydia Hearst on March 24, 2006
Perez Hilton, Richie Rich, Amanda Lepore, Nicky Hilton, Ingrid Casares, & Esteban Cortazar at Social on October 13, 2006
Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, Dany Johnson, & Esteban Cortazar at GenArt Fresh Faces at The Surfcomber on March 16, 2006
Esteban Cortazar & Tinsley Mortimer at Social Miami on May 5, 2006
WRE: When you were Artistic Director at Emanuel Ungaro, you refused to work with Lindsay Lohan who was to be brought in as an Artistic Consultant, so they cut ties. Looking back now, four years later, are you still happy with your decision?
EC: I think it was the best decision I’ve ever made. With that said, the experience I had at Ungaro was by far the most incredible experience I’ve had in my career. Moving to Paris and working for a French couture house at 23 and being given that chance, that will never be taken away from me. It had me think about my craft and who I am. The time I chose to leave was when I decided this is what I want to do with my life. I’m not doing this to be on the cover of US Weekly- it goes way beyond that- it’s about my integrity, and nothing comes in the way of that. I wouldn’t be at Net-a-Porter if I hadn’t made that decision. It only brought positive things to me. And that experience with Ungaro was something I’ll always be thankful that they gave to me. It became such gossip, but it was simple- it was an idea they had and I didn’t agree so we decided to part ways. It happens.
Jose Ortiz, Esteban Cortazar, & Tara Reid at Snatch on July 17, 2006
Esteban Cortazar at Snatch on July 17, 2006
Dita Von Teese & Esteban Cortazar at Suite on August 12, 2006
Michael Capponi, Valentino Cortazar, Esteban Cortazar, & Nicole Miller at Hotel Victor on October 5, 2006
Esteban-Cortazar & Nicole Miller at Hotel Victor on October 5, 2006
Heatherette, Sebastian Puga, & Esteban Cortazar at Rokbar on October 12, 2006
Zaha Hadid, DB Kim, & Esteban Cortazar at Swarovski Crystal Palace Opening at the Paris Theater on December 5, 2006
Esteban Cortazar & Nick Zano at Sky Bar on December 28, 2006
Mischa Barton & Esteban Cortazar at Mokai on January 31, 2007
Erick Morillo & Esteban Cortazar at Mokai on February 1, 2007
Kim Kardashian & Esteban Cortazar at Make-A-Wish Ball at the Hotel Intercontinental on November 8, 2008
Ben Pundole, Jade Jagger, & Esteban Cortazar at Jade Jagger’s Party at the Mondrian on March 28, 2009
Marc Jacobs & Esteban Cortazar at Belvedere & V Magazine Present Marc Jacobs After Party at Hiro at Maritime Hotel during New York Fashion Week on September 14, 2009
WRE: Do you have any plans to visit Miami more often or open a boutique here?
EC: I started there, and it’s the town that really embraced me as a kid. I would love to explore many kinds of projects in Miami, and I’d love to have a store when the time is right. At the moment, I do go at least once every year or two, taking care of paper work for my green card. The things that bring me back are my dear friends, stone crabs, the beach, and the Cuban food of course. I wish they could Fed-Ex [Joe’s stone crabs] over to Europe, but they don’t ship them internationally. I’ve tried so many times, so instead I just have to go there.
Perez Hilton & Esteban Cortazar at Belvedere & V Magazine Present Marc Jacobs After Party at Hiro at Maritime Hotel during New York Fashion Week on September 14, 2009
The Local “It Boy”
Not only did Esteban rub elbows with big name celebrities and supermodels, but he also became a beloved member of the South Beach local scene. From his earliest dinners with Ocean Drive magazine to birthday parties and trunk shows, Cortazar quickly made friends with all the reputable locals. He was always a welcome addition, if not the main attraction, at all the hottest parties and events on Collins Avenue, Ocean Drive, and Washington Avenue. Everyone who has watched him grow up here is beyond proud of his earliest days and how much of a career he’s made for himself already.
Coco & Esteban Cortazar at Wax on August 17, 1999
Esteban Cortazar at Tantra on October 4, 1999
WRE: What’s it been like going from a design house to having your own label?
EC: The good thing is that I had my own label before Ungaro, so I had a little taste of what it was. It was way smaller before, but I went back and kick-started my business, and now I know exactly what I do and don’t want. You have to take risks, and after being in the business for 13 years, I can understand a little better what’s important to do and how slow and steady can really win the race instead of going into things too fast. In the beginning I went into the game too fast because I wasn’t thinking on a big scale. I was just enjoying my teenage youth and having the opportunities, but now my head is in the right place and I know what I need to do.
Esteban Cortazar at Ocean Drive Magazine Cruise on October 7, 1999
Esteban Cortazar at Level Grand Opening on November 18, 1999
Esteban Cortazar & Ashley Shelton at Ocean Drive Magazine’s Volleypalooza on February 27, 2000
Esteban Cortazar at Ocean Drive Magazine’s Anniversary on February 25, 2000
Esteban Cortazar & Michael Capponi at 320 on December 22, 2000
“I met esteban when he was 14 years old and already hanging out with beautiful models. We hosted one of his first fashion shows at bar room when he was 16 and I helped him find his first investor. this talented little prodigy eventually became the youngest fashion designer in history to preview a show in New York fashion week. I really genuinely love esteban as a person and a designer” – Michael Capponi
Nick D’Annunzio, Erika Koopman, Esteban Cortazar, & Tara Solomon at Pioneers of South Beach Party at BED on February 6, 2002
“I like to say that Esteban is my love child. I’ve known him since he was 13. We met one night at Joia, bonding over fashion, of course. We became fast friends. Four years later, I was with him in New York as agency of record when he was the youngest designer, at 17, to ever show at Fashion Week. He has always been an old soul. I just adore him.” – Tara Solomon
Esteban Cortazar at Louis Vuitton Bal Harbour Grand Opening on March 6, 2002
Jose Ortiz & Esteban Cortazar at Cadillac Party at the Sagamore on October 3, 2002
Linley Edwards & Esteban Cortazar at Michael Capponi’s Birthday at Nygard Cay, Bahamas on March 29, 2003
Esteban Cortazar, Marita Stavrou, & Franz Klainsek at Seven’s Birthday at Pearl on June 6, 2003
Esteban Cortazar at Art Basel Presents Art Loves Music at Sky Bar on December 3, 2003
Michelle & Tommy Pooch, Esteban Cortazar at Sting Concert After Party at Sky Bar on January 17, 2004
Shakara Ledard & Esteban Cortazar at Delano Under the Stars on March 6, 2004
Esteban Cortazar at Delano Under the Stars on March 6, 2004
Esteban Cortazar at Funkshion at The Moore Building on October 15, 2004
Esteban Cortazar at Trunk Show at Funkshion on March 22, 2005
WRE: You’re known for combining a variety of textiles so well in your clothes and shoes- leather, suede, satin, metals- how do you conceive the right proportion of mixing and matching and which textiles to use?
EC: My experience at Ungaro is a huge part of understanding fabrics to a much higher level. I’ve been going to a big fabric fair in Paris, and I worked with such incredible fabrics, so now my eye is polished a lot more to picking the right ones and knowing how to edit yourself, which is very hard to do. That’s why the collections now are small and have a particular, direct point of view- you either like it or you don’t- but that’s fine. I don’t want to do a collection that has a million different views and options. I’d rather start with something that’s very straight forward. At the end of the day, it is what it is.
Esteban Cortazar Receiving the Key to the City at Funkshion on March 22, 2005
Esteban Cortazar & Navin Chatani at Sunglass Hut Swim Show After Party at Prive on July 15, 2005
Esteban Cortazar at Swim Shows Miami at the Raleigh on July 19, 2005
Esteban Cortazar at Funkshion at Icon Brickell on October 15, 2005
WRE: Your spring line was so well received with the gorgeous cream and ivory colors- what was the inspiration?
EC: There are reference points and styling points, but for me, it was a white canvas to start a new journey. That’s how it started with the color palette. This new collection is an exploration of curves, lines, the female body, how to accentuate from the shoulders to the hips, how to make a woman look and feel beautiful. I think ultimately that’s what every woman wants.
Rachel Pringle & Esteban Cortazar at Funkshion at Icon Brickell on October 15, 2005
Esteban Cortazar, Ami James, & Jona Cerwinske at T-Mobile at Ola South Beach on November 15, 2005
Jessica Rosenblum, Amy Sacco, & Esteban Cortazar at Suite on October 19, 2006
Amy Sacco & Esteban Cortazar at Suite on October 19, 2006
Esteban Cortazar, Nicola Siervo, Jessica Rosenblum, & Amy Sacco at Mokai on October 20, 2006
Greg Minasian, Seth Browarnik, & Esteban Cortazar at Mokai on November 10, 2006
Esteban Cortazar & Alan Roth at Mokai on November 10, 2006
Esteban Cortazar, Amy Sacco, Ingrid Casares, & Nick D’Annunzio at Suite on October 19, 2006
Esteban Cortazar at the West Elm Midtown Miami Grand Opening on March 27, 2007
Patricia Delanois, Jim Ferraro, Esteban Cortazar, & Shareef Malnik at the Make-A-Wish Ball at Hotel InterContinental on November 8, 2008
Esteban Cortazar, Tara Solomon, & DJ Irie at Ocean Drive Magazine Holiday Party on December 31, 2011
Esteban Cortazar at the Gale Hotel on December 7, 2012
WRE: What can we look forward to for fall? What’s next for Esteban Cortazar?
EC: I’m taking baby steps, so next is the launch of the collection with Net-a-Porter on July 3. We are planning different promotional efforts to push it out globally, so thats keeping me busy, and we’re working hard to get the best feedback and results possible. I’m working on the third collection, which will be ready later this year, and just taking it little by little in continuing this dialogue with women.
